Sunday, December 2, 2012

Hashing and Haring...TallyHo and away we run in Portugal

I love..........
·         not having a car – the freedom of walking everywhere with no exposure to traffic jams or road rage
·         the price of things in general...full week’s fruit and veg shopping for about €6
·         the helpfulness of the Portuguese people
·         the warmth of the sun on a blue sky day while sitting outside a cafe (yes, even in December)
·         the HUGE Atlantic rollers crashing down to the shore (best the hour before high tide)

I miss.......
·         Connemara – and everything about it – the beautiful colours/the ever changing scenery
·         Galway
·         Irish people in general

Social life
A very blurry picture of the Meetup group at
Porto's 'Open Art changeover evening in November
The MeetUp group in Porto has been a good source for meeting people and getting out and about. I’d be lost without it as Espinho is dead as a duck at the moment. It’s a bit hit or miss as to who turns up to the various events but I’ve been to a few social gatherings and some exhibitions – Photography Museum, etc.  

Interesting mix of people from all over the world and it’s fascinating to hear their various stories (the first time at least). The single mum from Sweden (3 young kids but who doesn’t look like she has a care in the world – speaks 5 languages, boyfriend in Sweden, etc.) to the disenchanted Portuguese woman who has worked in the UN in East Timor and Senegal, now back in Portugal and itching to get going again (there’s definitely a story there which will be teased out at a later date), to the good old straightforward Brits who just want a bit of a laugh. This month I joined one group to visit the 2012 World Press Photography Exhibition, which was fantastic .  

Fancy a day out with the Hash House Harriers?
In a roundabout way I ended up meeting Jennifer, English, married to a very savvy Portuguese entrepreneur. Very nice with a few ‘Gosh’ and ‘Super’s throughout her vocabulary. Through her I went to the ‘British Club’ in Porto to make a connection for an outdoor activity event that takes place every other Sunday. The British Club is so stereotypical - quite a few hooray Henry's there with their Gin and Tonics – definitely not my cup of tea. Anyway, I met my contact and arranged to go on the next Hash and Hare outing – affectionately known as ‘Hashing’. 
Start of the 'Hash' - I just followed along....

The Hash House Harriers  is an international group of non-competitive running, social clubs. An event organized by a club is known as a Hash or Hash Run, with participants calling themselves Hashers or Hares and Hounds. More information if you wish on: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hash_House_Harriers

It was hilarious. Basically the Hares lay the trail the day before(clues, which consist of bits of red or white ribbons, all with various meanings) and the Hashers (i.e. me + group) go running around like loolahs trying to find our way around. So, it’s a bit like orienteering without maps or compass. But good fun.......with lots of booze afterwards  and then lunch (the 'Bash') in a nice restaurant. 


Taking a breather - thank God - I need to get
up to running speed

They really take the socialising afterwards seriously and I was lucky to get home around 7pm - having left the house at 09:30. (The event itself only takes about 2 hours!!)
End of the Hash - Happy Hashers - now for the booze!
At least I got out and about on a Sunday, got some exercise (about 12kms in total - mixture of jogging/fast walking and trying to find the clues) and met lots of people - all very nice. The aftermath in the car park was hilarious - all sorts of drinking rituals - like these three guys - who were drinking out of plastic urinals (all brand new!)



Next one I can attend is the 'Jingle Bells' Hash on 16th December with the 'Bash' in the British Club....hmmm...may need something to get me through that one!

Apartment living  - the Sound of Silence - NOT
What can I say? Here are some of the sounds I experience on a regular basis:
  1. the guy across the hall hacking his guts up for about 10 minutes every morning (I thought I was never going to experience that again after Nepal – the Sherpa’s doing the same at 6am every morning – it was a cacophony  of the ‘clearing of the throats’ brigade). This guy takes the biscuit – unbelievably DISGUSTING to listen to. They tend to de-phelgm a lot more here than in Ireland –anyone who knows me well will appreciate and understand my aversion to all things to do with anything wobbly (seen/eaten/heard).
  2. the loud television next door – are they DEAF????
  3. the French woman constantly shrieking (and I mean SHRIEKKKKKKKKKing) at her teenage daughters – they’ll be scarred for life. Although when I was telling the school secretary she reminded me that in the UK (I’ve given up trying to tell people that I’m from Ireland) people speak very softly to their kids and here in Portugal they shout at them – nothing wrong with that!!! (ehh....try verbal abuse)
  4. the flushing of the toilet from the apartment upstairs at 6am every morning
  5. the small yapping dog across the street...........and I mean YAP, YAP, YAP, YAP, YAP (anyone got a BB gun??)
     Yapping dogs in general are a feature around Espinho. You see them with their little heads out the apartment windows yapping at everything that goes by. Their owners must be desensitised to the incessant YAKKKKKINNNG .....it definitely takes some getting used to – but also reminds me of all those art house films I’ve seen based in France/Spain/Italy, etc. – this is how a lot of people live. I’ve given up and am using ear-plugs to sleep.

Men
Men, men, men.....yakking in groups everywhere. On the beach – old men marking their territory in their ‘trunks’ (Y-Fronts – haven’t seen them for a few years!). Very passionately discussing various points of view. Can’t understand a word they are saying but it’s amusing to watch – like a play being acted out. And just when you think they are about to come to blows by the intensity of the conversation – one of them stomps off, the hand is thrown up in the air in what seems like disgust ......but wait.....here he comes again to continue the ‘discussion’.

Men, men, men ....sitting on the wall by the Prom every day...Yak, Yak, Yak
Men in restaurants – definitely not something you’d see in Ireland. Lots of small and large groups of men – workers finished for the day coming in for a beer and light bites – I was recently in a large popular cafe in Porto and there were six men at the next table looking at pictures on a iPad. One of them had to be about 100 old.

Massage (my favourite thing) – Wonderful Mary from Venezuela
Meet Mary the Massage Therapist from Venezuela


Through Carolina I’ve found a massage therapist who only charges €10/hr if you go to her house – which is in a town about 8kms away, so on yer bike but worth it.

 I’ve been going weekly for the past 4 weeks and the cumulative effect is fantastic. Now I just lose my patience after 30 minutes in the classroom, (instead of after 5). 

She is very, very good and  varies the massage each time, using hot stones, reflexology, etc.......do not know how she survives on that money but I’m not complaining as I couldn’t afford Irish prices for the same treatment here.






Teaching ‘Light Bulb’ Moment


Early days yet but I think I know that teaching teenagers is not my forte. I have (a) no tolerance, (b) no patience and (c) no interest – in dealing with their testosterone-fuelled behaviour. I think my next gig will definitely be adults if at all possible. 
Usually they WANT to learn and are not being forced into lessons by their parents. PS....before I get the backlash from all of you who have/had the teenager experience – not ALL are like that – but it’s the 20% that does your head in!

Is China taking over the World??
There are ‘China Shops’  are all over the gaff here – it is eerie - about 15 of them in Espinho alone. They are more like shops operated by Chinese people, then shops selling Chinese goods. An interesting phenomenon. Apparently they are taking over and putting a lot of the small shops here out of business. There are a few that are big and very well stocked, and then there are the smaller versions, badly laid out, full of junk – some of it useful but most of it tat....usually with one person sitting at the cash register all day with nobody coming in to buy. 

There are a couple of theories. 
One is simply that China is taking over anything to do with trade and commerce in the world! Another is that in doing that they set up loads of small operations – loss leaders – until they have pushed all the other small shops out of business, and then they consolidate with the bigger versions and hey presto – they have a monopoly! Another theory is that they are ‘fronts’ for money laundering. Apparently they are also big in Spain and springing up all over. There was recently a major scandal involving mostly Chinese mafia in Spain where billions of Euros in goods and money was recovered. 85 people arrested, 60+ Chinese. Watch out Ireland! 

Christmas
The school term is almost at an end (December 15). Lots of prep for tests and correcting tests, etc. But before that I have a few days off because of a public holiday, so off to Madrid for a couple of days on 7th December. I’ve never been so looking forward to it. Good belt  of time off at Christmas (unpaid of course) so I’m heading with my good friend Susan B. To Mallorca for 10 days for some hiking and R&R. Hoping to be fresh as a daisy for the January term, when I’ll have to up the ante with my ‘creativity’ with lessons before either I or the students go bonkers!


So.....until the next time when the Ho, Ho, Ho and all that will be well over...........Merry Christmas.





Some more Hash House Harrier photos....
Varied landscapes - town/sea/country

These guys wanted to join us but couldn't find the ribbons

Maria 'posing' during one of the searches for the ribbon
The self-named 'Gaudi' Restaurant for the Bash






Virgin Hashers completing the initiation
drinking ritual. Thank God there
weren't enough Urinals to go around!
Pit stop halfway through the Hash - beer of course!

Sunday, November 4, 2012

A Portuguese Experience

Life goes on.....some of my experiences/observations on life in Portugal
So, settling in nicely into life in Espinho - weather excellent up until about mid-October. Since then it has been a bit more unsettled but still incredibly mild - it's a joy to move around in and....when it rains you can actually use an umbrella here, without it being blown to smithereens, like in Galway!. I've pretty much set up most systems, bank, Internet, mobile phone, etc. and now actually have time on my hands. I love this new 'flexible' mode of working - suits me far better than a 9-5 job. Granted I'm not earning much but my other persona aka Ms. Frugal Franny has kicked in and everything is soooooooo cheap here (for what I need anyway), that I'm enjoying the free time more than having gobs of money to spend on stuff I don't need.

School: 
Still no textbooks for a lot of the students. The nightmare continues. We finally received the teacher's resource books to steer from but a few of the classes are still without the student books. TEFL is normally taught in a more 'flexible' environment and while grammar is definitely taught, it generally takes second place to the verbal aspect. But in many language schools, particularly in Europe, the focus seems to be on preparing students for the internationally recognised Cambridge exams. That little bit of paper is a foreign student's entry into the global workforce or the opportunity to study at an English language university. In contrast to adult classes where the students are more concerned with learning English to use in an everyday or business environment. At least the initial 'panic' and uncertainty over the unknown has subsided and I'm getting into a groove and routine and enjoying it. 

Market Day in Espinho

This market (every Monday) is reportedly one of the largest in the whole of Portugal. I was gobsmacked the first time I went to it. It is ginormous, especially when you take into account the size of Espinho. People come in from all over the region. Although I usually only buy fruit and veg there (need to be sure to go to the 'authentic' farmers' stalls - some of the stalls look like the owners have been to the Cash and Carry to pick up their supplies!). This market has literally EVERYTHING you could possibly want - chickens/ducks/birds/garden produce/fruit and veg /incredible cheese stalls/meat/household goods.......
I bet these babies could catch 
some pretty big Mice!

Tools of the trade


Curtains/quilts/material/kitchenware/ pins/needles/thread...you name it, this market has it. Fun to wander around. Sadly some of the people on the very small stalls are very poor looking farmers.







Fish Heads and other slippery things



A whole pavilion is given over to fish. Nuno, if you are reading this - I apologise. You were so happy to recommend the salted cod fish as (a) being delicious and (b) being a specialty of Northern Portugal - but I don't really eat fish (sacrilegious in this country/and in Galway/and in Boston - I just cannot get into it) and the smell of the salted codfish in the supermarkets makes me want to gag!! Mea Culpa!
Buttons and bob and threads ......

Transport - getting around
After trying to source a second-hand bike for a couple of weeks  I gave up and bought one a new one. Didn't really want to do that as I will more than likely be leaving next summer but I need something to run around on. Got a cheapo clunky hybrid and it does the job, although it is a bit heavy and hard going for any serious distance. As is the case in many countries in Europe, you can take your bike for free on the trains, which is great. The day after I bought the bike I decided to take a train ride to Ovar - a town south of Espinho and cycle from there to St. Jacinta where there is a nature park/dunes/etc. 
End of the bike ride in St. Jacinta -
 this guy doing his Tai Chi - what a setting!




It turned out to be further than I anticipated - 58kms in total and believe me - on that clunker I was exhausted. I will be limiting those kinds of trips in future. Porto is an 18kms bike ride and most of it is on bike paths and by the sea - the last part is gorgeous, along the river Douro. You then have the option of either cycling back or taking the train......you live and learn.

Cats 
we share our environment in Espinho with many, many cats – some of them are scrawny looking characters (except this one), although they seem to be regularly fed with rubbish scraps from the apartments......interesting recycling of food. Because most people live in apartments, dogs are not as common. One of my students told me that in his apartment block there is a limit of two dogs – so tough if you want to live in a particular block and the quota has already been reached. They’re big into pet birds though – you hear them chirping on the balconies all the time....



Coffee shops
The Portuguese love their coffee - almost as much if not more than the Italians. There are literally hundreds of coffee shops/small Cafés on every corner of practically every building. I've sourced my favourites (basically the ones who understand me and give me the type of coffee I want!). In most small local Cafés you can get a double shot with hot milk for €0.85. Unbelievable. Always a bit more expensive at beach cafes and in the major cities (e.g. Porto) but rarely more than about €1.20. Many people just pop into the Café....order an espresso......drink it in about 10 seconds.....and leave. Mainly the people who linger for any length of time are: me and old people.....groups of men of women who go to the same place every day.

  Fishing
Haggling for sardines





There are loads of fisher women who wheel barrows/carts around selling sardines (just like Molly Malone - never thought I'd see a real live Molly Malone). 

They have a plaintive yell that can be heard all over town. they claim the fish are fresh from 'our sea' that day but when asked everyone throws their eyes up to heaven about the validity of that claim.


Fishing seems to be a national pastime in  Portugal. 
This is a daily ritual on the beaches in Espinho....lots of people fishing (as opposed to the seafaring type fishermen). You can see fishing lines the whole length of the beach.
Menlo John Francis and Cape Cod Bob:  you'd both be in your element here!

Rubbish/Trash Collection
They have a 'quaint' custom of collecting the rubbish EVERY evening. You just tie it up and place it in the hollow of one of the many trees on the street. Great for apartment living as you don't end up with smelly 7-day rubbish but not sure about the environment - Ari??

They do have bottle and recycling banks dotted around but it's the daily rubblish pick-up that intrigues me.








University 'uniforms'
There is a tradition here that after Freshman Year - students wear black suits for the guys and black skirts, tights and jackets for the girls - all topped off with a black cape - it looks bizarre on people so young.
Also, I couldn't believe they would wear a big, heavy winter cape in September/October type weather. Then I met Miguel outside a shopping centre and he explained that the 'colourful' badges on his cape were for various clubs/fraternities he belonged to.....etc. He was as proud as punch to have his photo taken. 

 
Miguel in his 'University' cape
Trip to visit the city of  Guimarães

I decided I had enough of preparing for classes and it was time to take a short trip to explore further afield. A recommendation I received was to travel by train to Guimarães, which is currently the European Capital City of Culture. It's a medieval city and also the birthplace of Portugal. I really enjoyed the day - I'm not normally one for museums and galleries/castles, etc., but everything was on a relatively small scale and easy to get around.




I heard singing coming from Mass at one of the famous churches I had visited earlier when it was empty and went back to have a listen. The choir was incredible - could have been on stage. I noticed also last Sunday in Espinho the choir in the local church was excellent. One other interesting fact was that on both occasions the churches were pretty full - bit different from modern day Ireland.


Stairway to Heaven....Castle










Exiting the stairway to heaven





Came across this 'Angelorum' Exhibition in one of the museums......very interesting...a mix of religious and modern interpretations - I loved the modern ones!






One of the Stations of the Cross dotted on
the street - looked like people's doorways

Roasting Chestnuts in Guimaraes


Ebony and Ivory - wouldn't have to
worry about noisy neighbours here!

Typical narrow street in Guimaraes


The Duke's Palace

Back view of the castle




The beautifully restored castle 'ruin'


Not really progressing with learning Portuguese. In an English-speaking environment and no opportunity to take lessons. It's a tough language to learn but I am picking up some of the essentials. Lots of people speak English which helps.

Social life not up to much but last Friday was a Red Letter Day! I joined an online group called MeetUp which is for locals/ex-pats, etc. to meet up (get it??) and do different things. I met with a couple of interesting people and hopefully this will lead to some more activities. Of course I feel like the granny in the group but I'll get over it. Heading next Friday to do a tour of the art galleries in the 'artist quarter' in Porto so we'll see how that goes.

I'll sign off with some random photos taken over the past month...I travel into Porto about once every week and am slowly finding my way around (believe me when I say that I am always getting lost) - I'm like the finance dummy who needs to use their fingers to count - except in my case I need to physically turn my body and the map in all directions to orient myself! 

Missing - Connemara and the stunning colours/hiking/Irish people but looking forward to the next 6 weeks and then Christmas break - sure don't teachers have a great life!! (that last comment's for you Louise!).....Hel

Random Images from Porto & Espinho
One of the many beautiful churches
dotted around Porto

Crazy kids jumping from the lower
bridge into the Douro


Art Deco House at the Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art (Art Museum not up to much but the grounds are lovely and this house which you can visit is very cool)


Hard to see in this picture but this is
 actually a motorised para glider!




Caught this fellow getting a 'bird's eye view


One of the many beautiful sunsets



Mom and Pop walking the Prom (part of a 
religious group collecting money for some feast day)